Showing posts with label Traveler Beyond. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Traveler Beyond. Show all posts

Friday, December 2, 2011

Nagarhole-Kabini-Tholpetty , Travelogue and picturelogue

Travelling through Nagarhole National park at low speed is such a pleasure and the hope to find the orange striped Monster is thrilling.
The park is a part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve and belongs to the Western Ghats. The forest have main trees of Rosewood, Teak, Sandalwood and Silver oak thus making it a dry deciduous forest.
Nagarhole NP

We encounter this huge trunk while driving through the Jungles of Nagarhole.
He was very near to our car (50m) and busy plucking grasses.
He did blow a trumpet when we crossed him and quickly fled away. It was an excited moment...
Tusker Trails


We saw thousands of them hiding in the grass, next to the tar road inside the sanctuary. The chital or cheetal  also known as chital deer, spotted deer or axis deer is a deer which commonly inhabits wooded regions of  India.
Chital
The spotted deer is found in large numbers in dense deciduous or semi-evergreen forests and open grasslands.
 Naive and alert!


Its very hard to identify the orange glowing tail in the desnse forest, as they hangup very high and are very shy. The Indian giant squirrel  rarely leaves the trees, and requires tall profusely branched trees for the construction of nests. It travels from tree to tree with jumps of up to 20 ft.  It is a shy, wary animal and not easy to discover. While searching in Nagarhole National park we found this beauty eating leaves, the orange color on the tail was very helpful in identifying an animal up above the trees.
The dark brown, tan and beige (and largest), of the tropical semi-evergreen forests east of the Brahmagiri mountains in Kodagu (Coorg). It is the largest Squirrel of the world.
Malabar giant squirrel

Soon we reached Kuta and we headed for Irrupu Falls, the fall seems three tiered and is located in Brahamagiri forest reserve.Brahmagiri Hills gives a magnificient 3 tier water fall - Iruppu. The trek to the falls is easy and includes steep steps.
Milky Stream

Marmalade hover-fly, is a relatively small hoverfly , widespread throughout all continents.
The upper side of the abdomen is patterned with orange and black bands. Two further identification characters are the presence of secondary black bands on the 3rd and 4th dorsal plates and of faint greyish longitudinal stripes on the thorax. It is among the very few species of flies capable of crushing pollen grains and feeding on them. Taken on the way up to Iruppu falls, Brhamagiri Hills, western Ghats India.
Marmalade Hoverfly


After having a stroll through the Brahamagiri jungles, and a quick bath we tried heading toward Tholpetty National park which is just across the border in Kerala. The park is well guarded and is having more rocky terrian. We hired a four wheel jeep and went inside.
This tree welcomes you to Tholpetty National Park, which is open for Forest Jeeps. The blue sky was blue from the green forest.
Seasons


Tholpetty National Park next to Nagarhole National Park is good to locate Gaurs. We saw an Herd crossing the jungle road. These were in 8-10 numbers and there was a baby Bison among them.
The gaur (Bos gaurus), also called Indian bison, is a large bovine native to South Asia and Southeast Asia. The species is listed as vulnerable on the IUCN Red List since 1986 as the population decline in parts of the species' range is likely to be well over 70% over the last three generations.
The gaur has a high convex ridge on the forehead between the horns, which bends forward, causing a deep hollow in the profile of the upper part of the head. There is a prominent ridge on the back. The ears are very large; the tail only just reaches the hocks, and in old bulls the hair becomes very thin on the back. In colour, the adult male gaur is dark brown, approaching black in very old individuals; the upper part of the head, from above the eyes to the nape of the neck, is, however, ashy gray, or occasionally dirty white; the muzzle is pale coloured, and the lower part of the legs are pure white or tan.
In India, the population was estimated to be 12,000–22,000 in the mid-1990s. The Western Ghats and their outflanking hills in southern India constitute one of the most extensive extant strongholds of gaur, in particular in the Wynaad – Nagarahole – Mudumalai – Bandipur complex.
The gaur is the largest species of wild cattle, bigger than the African buffalo, the extinct aurochs, and wild water buffalo. The popular energy drink "Red Bull" is made by an Austrian firm under licence from a Thailand company who originally invented and marketed it in Southeast Asia. The original name of the drink in Thai is "Gratin Daang" which means "Red Gaur" (gratin is "gaur" in Thai)
Indian bison

We also spotted several deer, Peacocks and Turtle on the way. There was also abundance of birds chirping around.
This orange spider was very unique in making net inside the leaves.
Spider - Orange


You will also find lots of Langurs around the road.
Gray langurs or Hanuman langurs, the most widespread langurs of India, are a group of Old World monkeys.
Langurs are preyed upon by leopards, dholes and tigers.
Langur


Soon we headed towards Kabini forest and went to Balle Elephant camp.While visiting Balle, I saw this elephant dancing after having his daily meal.
There are people who advocate the continued capture of wild elephants even today, because herds isolated by deforestation are coming into conflict with humans.
You can also reach this elephant camp at Balle, you must drive via Karapur from Mysore-Mananthavady Road, via Kabini.
They bathe the elephants in the morning and feed them at around 9 AM then they send them to the wild jungles, to call them back again in evening. I asked the forest departments about this interesting sending to wild, then they replied that these elephants eat a lot and jungle is full of free bamboo shoots.Elephants are classified as megaherbivores and consume up to 150 kg (330 lb) of plant matter per day.
Elephant in line for For
The sight of elephants standing in a row, resting their trunks on wooden poles uncomplainingly and waiting for their turn to get the snack is amusing.


Baby elephant dancing on his tunes
Baby Elephant Dancing on its tune.

The old stockades can still be seen when the river waters recede. Although the custom has been discontinued it is a reminder of the barbaric abuse of the gentle giants.
Baby's day out
baby's day out


I just gotout from my car (in the pic) and took a shot while the pachyderm  was crossing the road.
The old khedda site at Mastigudi and the camp for elephants at Balle. Khedda is an ancient method of capturing wild elephants. In the 19th Century Capt. G.P. Sanderson developed a method using stockades that was particularly effective for the Kabini river surrounds.

Balle Elephant Camp

We saw lots of Pond Heron and Cormorants around the Kabini river basin.
cormorants and shags



Soon we headed out of the forest and went to Kabini Dam reservoir, which provides water to this amazing kingdom.
Kabini Dam

Our day was over and we headed back to Bangalore.
Since its a two day itinerary I suggest you to take a stay either at Kabini/Kuta/Trineveli or Manathvadi.

-Sakshi Jain
and Saurabh

Thursday, December 1, 2011

The Ghost Town of India - Travelogue and picturelogue


This Ghost town of Dhanushkodi is a must visit for "off-roading"  freaks and people who loves emptiness and Zenith for a simple landscape shooting minimalism. For others, you can visit for religious purpose and can take bath in the confluence of oceans.
This the place where Ram built the bridge to defeat Ravan. And its the end of Mainland India. This is the last place of India.
One of the most serene yet haunting place in India.
The moment you will take a left turn to the shore and the thickness of sand will give a jitter to your vehicle but the thrill is all to meet the end.
Beginning of a Desert
Flight to emptiness
You will find numerous Sand Pipers running around and catching small crabs. 



Waiting for another Carcass
The vulture waiting for another carcass in the desert.


Wild Horses  and a Sandpiper

You will also find some wild horses roaming and grazing around.


Once upon a Boat
Wrecked fishing boat at Lands End


Strike!!
The buildings that braved the fateful day still exist partly buried in the sand and partly weathered by the sea adding a mysterious beauty to the place. A rusted four-pillared structure, possibly a water tank, welcomes us to this lost land. Even though the town was wiped away by the 1964 cyclone, small numbers of temporary settlers live in thatched huts during the fishing season.


Haunting yet appealing
Ghost Town.... of India , Destroyed Completely by Cyclone.


Destruction: Church and Railway station
Destruction: Church and Railway station


Remains of a Railway station
Even though there was a railway line between Pamban and Dhanushkodi and a passenger train used to ply regularly, after the storm the tracks were damaged and in course of time, were covered by sand dunes and hence had to be abandoned. One has to reach Dhanushkodi either on foot along sea shore on the sand dunes or in jeeps and in tempos of fishermen.


No Man's land
No Man's land




All together over 1800 people died in the cyclonic storm. All dwelling houses and other structures in Dhanushkodi were marooned in the storm . The high tidal waves moved almost 10 kilometres onto this island and ruined the entire town. Pamban bridge was washed away by the high tidal waves in this disaster. 



Well in the Ghostliness
Well in the Ghostliness



Breathtaking beauty, a population of less than 500, the nearest telephone about 20 km away, out of reach of mobile signals and the feeling of being in a place which was once alive, now reduced to rubble, makes it a place truly less travelled. And standing at the tip of India is a pretty heady feeling!

Once..... Alive!!
Once..... Alive!!

Remnants of the Dhanushkodi Railway Station
Remnants of the Dhanushkodi Railway Station
in the Ghost Town

Ghost Town
Ex-president of India, Dr. A.P.J. Abdul Kalam, hails from a fishing hamlet called Dhanushkodi



History of Dhanushkodi : Dhanushkodi is the place where Ram (from Ramayana) visited on the way to Lanka and held pooja. This Hindi Epic says that at the request of Vibeeshana (brother of Ravana) ,Ram broke the Sethu with one end of his bow and hence the name Dhanushkodi (Dhanush meaning Bow and Kodi meaning end) .This Setu is also called as Rama's Bridge/Adam's Bridge and it connects India and SriLanka.
A temple sub-merged
History of Destruction:- Dhanushkodi Railway station and Town was hit by a massive tidal wave storm in 1964. The whole train was washed away killing all 115 on the spot. All together over 1800 people died in the cyclonic storm. All dwelling houses and other structures in Dhanushkodi were marooned in the storm . Following this disaster, the Government of Madras declared the town as Ghost town and unfit for living after the storm.Only few fisherfolks now live there.
Sand Town


Remnant of Church

Remnant of Church

Doomed Temple

Altar

You will also find some families of fishermen, carrying fresh waters and bringing the silhouette to the frame








http://www.flickr.com/photos/saish746/sets/72157627765498333/ 

Monday, November 22, 2010

One weekend at Calcutta

I arrived late, just after the clock changed the date at Netaji Subhas chandra Bose Airport; an old but structured airport. My Friend Sourav was waiting outside it just near the 24hrs coffee shop. The Chaos and Corruption which is very in sight in Bangalore took a back seat here, atleast you get yourself a piece of your own mind. Calcutta Chromosomes are tad slow and goes back in time. We stayed in CCD till the last drop of our coffee, which was regulated twice by an extra dose of coffee each time. Calcutta definitely love their coffee light and sweet.

Soon we were on our way to City (शहर), as per a sign board just outside Airport. The Roads were deserted around 1 AM. I could see sleeping lives and halted taxi all the way to home. There were policemen minding their own business at usual check posts. I was wondering nobody stopped us, Yet!.

Back in Bangalore you will be stopped atleast 3-4 times to check for your breath. Bangalore police keeps their vigil not to save you or some pedestrian but to earn some extra bucks. At least a Common man can identify the differences in the attitude of the Govt officials (I am not saying that West bengal is less or more corrupt, this is with respect to day to day life observation).
The night was made longer with more discussions and a late night Dinner. Needless to say that the spicy egg curry with Plain paratha was awesome. It reminded me of a funny word "DIM", which means egg in Bangla. and its more funny when a true son of the soul says it. The flight was tiring and I retired late.

A call from a Dentist at early hours to treat you from the Stomach upset can really be soothing. My another Dentist friend Goldie, eager to meet me, had cancelled all his sheduled appontments and was really anxious about my whereabouts. Soon after the prescription, I felt better and the system was cleansed. I had Chola-Bhatura in my breakfast and left to Alipur-Behala. The Dental clinic was made into a small eatery with a provision of drinks.

We went downstairs to a grill-locked wine shop and got some beer. I took He-Man 9000 beer and Palone - Carlsberg. Palone is a strong beer from the Carlsberg stable with 7.5% alc v/v. Goldie chose Tuborg beer (Again a brand from Carlsberg stable). Okocim Palone is dark in color with intense taste due to a unique process of malt fire-burning. A process that requires craftsmanship and precision from the brewer. As a result a beer has been created with a slightly sweet taste at first sip and a nice bitter follow through. While He-Man9000 is really a strong beer with taste like that of Iron (blood).It is brewed by Yuksom Breweries with Malt Liquor style in Sikkim, India.This beer is from the same brewery which brew Dansberg Premium Lager Beer, a brand owned by Bollywood lovable villain  Danny Denzongpa.

After the short stint with new beers, we had the awaited Calcutta style Mutton biryani and Rezala Chicken along with Reshmi Kebabs and Chaps. The food was mouth watering and I must confess, after Delhi, Calcutta and Hyderabad are the two Metropolitan cities which can boast a non-vegetarian platter. 
Calcutta or Kolkata biryani evolved from the Lucknow style (Awadh) in 1856. The Meat also include a large peeled Potato as a distinct feature of the Calcutta biryani along with an boiled egg. Also Calcutta biriyani is much lighter on masala and more subtle , unlike it's Hyderabadi counterpart and the rice is boiled with a lot of Saffron and added fragrance. 
Chap (ribs slow cooked on a tawa) and Rezala (meat in a thin yogurt and cardamom gravy) is a perfect combination with Biryani. Rezala has not so thick white gravy with little bengali style sweetness which comes by adding a dash of sugar and a nice blend of poppy seeds(Posto dana) and cashew. 


Soon after the food was licked-finished, we headed out for a strong head massage. Funny it was that we carried Carlsbergs from the shop next door Saloon. we discussed some nonsense stuffs and soon was hungry. The Famous Calcutta chat house was calling us.We had our Kesar-Kulfi.


I reached Sourav's place in the evening and was soon heading towards Underground Disc (HHI). It was already 9PM. so instead, we headed to Sanjha Chulha for the Tandoori Pepper Chicken and a pint of classic Kinglisher. The Chicken was juicy and spicy, licked beyond the bone.

The island bar with a wide bar platform of Underground was dark gloomy and Expensive. The crowd was niche but the DJ was sick. The dance floor was only for couples so Sourav and me took our turn with Bhabhi one by one. Heineken was the cheapest beer at the price tag of Rs470/- pint exclusive of taxes.
I must admit that Kolkatan Girls are far bolder than their counterparts :). The DJ played many songs umpteen times but we were in the groove enjoying our own Dharmendra style dances. 
And the best part:
2AM: we came out of the Disc and headed towards the Azad-Hind Dhaba on Ballygunge Circular Road. South Kolkata’s posh Ballygunge neighbourhood wakes up in the night after the pubs and discs are closed. All the night crowd with their minis and Mazda come here and stand in a very long queue to get their seats. We were lucky enough to get the seat on the upper floor AC-restaurant.



Azad Hind has been one of the hot spots for late-night diners for a while now. It opened in the late 70s and has many well-loved items, including the Crispy baby corn fried. Sanjay Dutt, Hema Malini, etc are regulars here along with famous painter M.F. Husain who would drop by for tea and had even gifted the eatery a small work of his "An Original M.F Hussain Gaj Gamini" painting that the master himself had done on the wall. After the heartily Midnight Meal-The Night was over and a day in Calcutta.


The Date was changed before I could register.




more pics : http://www.flickr.com/photos/saish746/sets/72157625161850177/