Friday, December 2, 2011

Nagarhole-Kabini-Tholpetty , Travelogue and picturelogue

Travelling through Nagarhole National park at low speed is such a pleasure and the hope to find the orange striped Monster is thrilling.
The park is a part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve and belongs to the Western Ghats. The forest have main trees of Rosewood, Teak, Sandalwood and Silver oak thus making it a dry deciduous forest.
Nagarhole NP

We encounter this huge trunk while driving through the Jungles of Nagarhole.
He was very near to our car (50m) and busy plucking grasses.
He did blow a trumpet when we crossed him and quickly fled away. It was an excited moment...
Tusker Trails


We saw thousands of them hiding in the grass, next to the tar road inside the sanctuary. The chital or cheetal  also known as chital deer, spotted deer or axis deer is a deer which commonly inhabits wooded regions of  India.
Chital
The spotted deer is found in large numbers in dense deciduous or semi-evergreen forests and open grasslands.
 Naive and alert!


Its very hard to identify the orange glowing tail in the desnse forest, as they hangup very high and are very shy. The Indian giant squirrel  rarely leaves the trees, and requires tall profusely branched trees for the construction of nests. It travels from tree to tree with jumps of up to 20 ft.  It is a shy, wary animal and not easy to discover. While searching in Nagarhole National park we found this beauty eating leaves, the orange color on the tail was very helpful in identifying an animal up above the trees.
The dark brown, tan and beige (and largest), of the tropical semi-evergreen forests east of the Brahmagiri mountains in Kodagu (Coorg). It is the largest Squirrel of the world.
Malabar giant squirrel

Soon we reached Kuta and we headed for Irrupu Falls, the fall seems three tiered and is located in Brahamagiri forest reserve.Brahmagiri Hills gives a magnificient 3 tier water fall - Iruppu. The trek to the falls is easy and includes steep steps.
Milky Stream

Marmalade hover-fly, is a relatively small hoverfly , widespread throughout all continents.
The upper side of the abdomen is patterned with orange and black bands. Two further identification characters are the presence of secondary black bands on the 3rd and 4th dorsal plates and of faint greyish longitudinal stripes on the thorax. It is among the very few species of flies capable of crushing pollen grains and feeding on them. Taken on the way up to Iruppu falls, Brhamagiri Hills, western Ghats India.
Marmalade Hoverfly


After having a stroll through the Brahamagiri jungles, and a quick bath we tried heading toward Tholpetty National park which is just across the border in Kerala. The park is well guarded and is having more rocky terrian. We hired a four wheel jeep and went inside.
This tree welcomes you to Tholpetty National Park, which is open for Forest Jeeps. The blue sky was blue from the green forest.
Seasons


Tholpetty National Park next to Nagarhole National Park is good to locate Gaurs. We saw an Herd crossing the jungle road. These were in 8-10 numbers and there was a baby Bison among them.
The gaur (Bos gaurus), also called Indian bison, is a large bovine native to South Asia and Southeast Asia. The species is listed as vulnerable on the IUCN Red List since 1986 as the population decline in parts of the species' range is likely to be well over 70% over the last three generations.
The gaur has a high convex ridge on the forehead between the horns, which bends forward, causing a deep hollow in the profile of the upper part of the head. There is a prominent ridge on the back. The ears are very large; the tail only just reaches the hocks, and in old bulls the hair becomes very thin on the back. In colour, the adult male gaur is dark brown, approaching black in very old individuals; the upper part of the head, from above the eyes to the nape of the neck, is, however, ashy gray, or occasionally dirty white; the muzzle is pale coloured, and the lower part of the legs are pure white or tan.
In India, the population was estimated to be 12,000–22,000 in the mid-1990s. The Western Ghats and their outflanking hills in southern India constitute one of the most extensive extant strongholds of gaur, in particular in the Wynaad – Nagarahole – Mudumalai – Bandipur complex.
The gaur is the largest species of wild cattle, bigger than the African buffalo, the extinct aurochs, and wild water buffalo. The popular energy drink "Red Bull" is made by an Austrian firm under licence from a Thailand company who originally invented and marketed it in Southeast Asia. The original name of the drink in Thai is "Gratin Daang" which means "Red Gaur" (gratin is "gaur" in Thai)
Indian bison

We also spotted several deer, Peacocks and Turtle on the way. There was also abundance of birds chirping around.
This orange spider was very unique in making net inside the leaves.
Spider - Orange


You will also find lots of Langurs around the road.
Gray langurs or Hanuman langurs, the most widespread langurs of India, are a group of Old World monkeys.
Langurs are preyed upon by leopards, dholes and tigers.
Langur


Soon we headed towards Kabini forest and went to Balle Elephant camp.While visiting Balle, I saw this elephant dancing after having his daily meal.
There are people who advocate the continued capture of wild elephants even today, because herds isolated by deforestation are coming into conflict with humans.
You can also reach this elephant camp at Balle, you must drive via Karapur from Mysore-Mananthavady Road, via Kabini.
They bathe the elephants in the morning and feed them at around 9 AM then they send them to the wild jungles, to call them back again in evening. I asked the forest departments about this interesting sending to wild, then they replied that these elephants eat a lot and jungle is full of free bamboo shoots.Elephants are classified as megaherbivores and consume up to 150 kg (330 lb) of plant matter per day.
Elephant in line for For
The sight of elephants standing in a row, resting their trunks on wooden poles uncomplainingly and waiting for their turn to get the snack is amusing.


Baby elephant dancing on his tunes
Baby Elephant Dancing on its tune.

The old stockades can still be seen when the river waters recede. Although the custom has been discontinued it is a reminder of the barbaric abuse of the gentle giants.
Baby's day out
baby's day out


I just gotout from my car (in the pic) and took a shot while the pachyderm  was crossing the road.
The old khedda site at Mastigudi and the camp for elephants at Balle. Khedda is an ancient method of capturing wild elephants. In the 19th Century Capt. G.P. Sanderson developed a method using stockades that was particularly effective for the Kabini river surrounds.

Balle Elephant Camp

We saw lots of Pond Heron and Cormorants around the Kabini river basin.
cormorants and shags



Soon we headed out of the forest and went to Kabini Dam reservoir, which provides water to this amazing kingdom.
Kabini Dam

Our day was over and we headed back to Bangalore.
Since its a two day itinerary I suggest you to take a stay either at Kabini/Kuta/Trineveli or Manathvadi.

-Sakshi Jain
and Saurabh

Thursday, December 1, 2011

The Ghost Town of India - Travelogue and picturelogue


This Ghost town of Dhanushkodi is a must visit for "off-roading"  freaks and people who loves emptiness and Zenith for a simple landscape shooting minimalism. For others, you can visit for religious purpose and can take bath in the confluence of oceans.
This the place where Ram built the bridge to defeat Ravan. And its the end of Mainland India. This is the last place of India.
One of the most serene yet haunting place in India.
The moment you will take a left turn to the shore and the thickness of sand will give a jitter to your vehicle but the thrill is all to meet the end.
Beginning of a Desert
Flight to emptiness
You will find numerous Sand Pipers running around and catching small crabs. 



Waiting for another Carcass
The vulture waiting for another carcass in the desert.


Wild Horses  and a Sandpiper

You will also find some wild horses roaming and grazing around.


Once upon a Boat
Wrecked fishing boat at Lands End


Strike!!
The buildings that braved the fateful day still exist partly buried in the sand and partly weathered by the sea adding a mysterious beauty to the place. A rusted four-pillared structure, possibly a water tank, welcomes us to this lost land. Even though the town was wiped away by the 1964 cyclone, small numbers of temporary settlers live in thatched huts during the fishing season.


Haunting yet appealing
Ghost Town.... of India , Destroyed Completely by Cyclone.


Destruction: Church and Railway station
Destruction: Church and Railway station


Remains of a Railway station
Even though there was a railway line between Pamban and Dhanushkodi and a passenger train used to ply regularly, after the storm the tracks were damaged and in course of time, were covered by sand dunes and hence had to be abandoned. One has to reach Dhanushkodi either on foot along sea shore on the sand dunes or in jeeps and in tempos of fishermen.


No Man's land
No Man's land




All together over 1800 people died in the cyclonic storm. All dwelling houses and other structures in Dhanushkodi were marooned in the storm . The high tidal waves moved almost 10 kilometres onto this island and ruined the entire town. Pamban bridge was washed away by the high tidal waves in this disaster. 



Well in the Ghostliness
Well in the Ghostliness



Breathtaking beauty, a population of less than 500, the nearest telephone about 20 km away, out of reach of mobile signals and the feeling of being in a place which was once alive, now reduced to rubble, makes it a place truly less travelled. And standing at the tip of India is a pretty heady feeling!

Once..... Alive!!
Once..... Alive!!

Remnants of the Dhanushkodi Railway Station
Remnants of the Dhanushkodi Railway Station
in the Ghost Town

Ghost Town
Ex-president of India, Dr. A.P.J. Abdul Kalam, hails from a fishing hamlet called Dhanushkodi



History of Dhanushkodi : Dhanushkodi is the place where Ram (from Ramayana) visited on the way to Lanka and held pooja. This Hindi Epic says that at the request of Vibeeshana (brother of Ravana) ,Ram broke the Sethu with one end of his bow and hence the name Dhanushkodi (Dhanush meaning Bow and Kodi meaning end) .This Setu is also called as Rama's Bridge/Adam's Bridge and it connects India and SriLanka.
A temple sub-merged
History of Destruction:- Dhanushkodi Railway station and Town was hit by a massive tidal wave storm in 1964. The whole train was washed away killing all 115 on the spot. All together over 1800 people died in the cyclonic storm. All dwelling houses and other structures in Dhanushkodi were marooned in the storm . Following this disaster, the Government of Madras declared the town as Ghost town and unfit for living after the storm.Only few fisherfolks now live there.
Sand Town


Remnant of Church

Remnant of Church

Doomed Temple

Altar

You will also find some families of fishermen, carrying fresh waters and bringing the silhouette to the frame








http://www.flickr.com/photos/saish746/sets/72157627765498333/ 

Radio Channel

विकट बुद्धि IV
 एक बार हम सब ऑफिस के दोस्त लोग मेरी गाड़ी में जा रहे थे , और हमेशा की तरह मेरी गाड़ी में ९४.३ Radio one चैनल ऑन था | मैं यह चैनल इसीलिए सुनता हूँ की यह एकमात्र हिंदी चैनल है और गाने भी अच्छे होते है |
विकट बुद्धि ने पीछे की सीट पर बैठे बैठे पुछा -"तुम यह चैनल ही क्यूँ सुनते हो?"
मैंने ज़वाब दिया-"क्यूंकि यह अच्छा है, और कोई विकल्प है क्या?"
"मुझे पता नहीं, तुम क्या बोलते हो?"
"मेरे हिसाब से यह बेहतर है "
"दूसरा चैनल क्यूँ नहीं तरी करते, बचपन में हमलोग antenna घुमा कर दूसरा चैनल को पकड़ लेते थे "
मेरे मित्र ने टिपण्णी की -"बचपन में तो सिर्फ DD1 हुआ करता था |"
"हाँ पर, हमलोग antenna से नए चैनल पकड़ लेते थे , और हमारे टीवी में वो घुस जाता था "
मैंने हँसते हुए कहा-"यह तो गैरकानूनी है|"
"क्या बात करते हो, वैसे भी कौन police को बोलेगा? वो छोड़ो यह सुनो - आजकल तो antenna ही नहीं होता है |"
"अच्छा ! फिर चैनल कैसे आता है?"
"आजकल तो Direct अन्दर घुस जाता है, जब मर्ज़ी तब बदल डालो |"
यह सुन कर कोई भी अपनी हँसी रोक ना सका | उसने पहले ही अपने बचाव में कहा -"क्या बात करते हो!"
हँसी तो रुकने का नाम नहीं ले रही थी ,
रेडियो पर गाना बज रहा था - परदे में रहने दो, पर्दा ना उठावो , पर्दा जो उठ गया तो ..........
अचानक से पता नहीं क्यूँ  मैंने चैनल change किया तो - 
                                       "अजी  हमसे  बचकर  कहाँ  जाइएगा  
                                            जहां  जाइएगा  हमे  पाइयेगा 
                                                अजी  हमसे  बचकर..  "




-© 2011 सत्य घटना पर आधारित 

Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Bird Whisperer

विकट बुद्धि III  

एक बार हुआ यूँ की हम सब ऑफिस के कैफेटेरिया में बैठ कर गप्प मार रहे थे , हमेशा की तरह |
और हमेशा की तरह हमारा विषय विकट बुद्धि की इर्द्द गिर्द्द था | कैफेटेरिया ऑफिस की पांचवी मंजिल पर है और उसकी दीवारें शीशे की बनी हुई है, आप हाथ में एक कप गरमागरम कॉफी ले कर दूर तक बंगलोर का लुफ्त उठा सकते है |
मैंने विकट बुद्धि से एक सवाल पुछा -"कौन सी चिड़िया उड़ नहीं सकती ?"

उसने हँसते हुए कहाँ -"बहुत ही आसन है|"
"तो फिर बताने में इतना समय क्यूँ ?"
"कौन सी बड़ी बात है , मैं यह सब याद नहीं रखता हूँ , क्यूंकि मेरे पास Google Power है "
टेबल पर बैठे मेरे मित्र ने उसकी टांग खीचते हुए कहा -"ओए तू तो non veg है ना, फिर इतना वक़्त क्यूँ?"
उसने ज़वाब दिया -"मेरे non veg खाने से उसका क्या?..."
"क्यूँ खाते वक़्त याद नहीं रहता की क्या खा रहे हो ?"
"खैर वो छोड़ो , यह बताओ , तुम कैसे याद रखते हो इतना कुछ?"
"किसी चिड़िया को चलते हुए देखो हो "
............
इन सब बातों से विकट बुद्धि अपना सर खुजाने लगा, मैं टेबल से उठ कर दूसरी चाय का कप बनाने लगा |
दुसरे मित्र ने कहा -"यार तुने कभी स्कूल में पढाई लिखाई की है क्या , तेरे को कुछ पता क्यों नहीं है ?"
वो अभी भी सर खुजा रहा था | खुजाते हुए कहा - "वो मैं भूल गया |"
मैंने  कहा - "कभी Chicken Lollypop खाया है?"
"उसमे क्या है "
"किस चीज़ से बनता है?"
"मुर्गी "
"या फिर मुर्गा ?"
"हाँ , तो? "
"वो क्या होता है?"
"जानवर "

ठीक इसी समय , कैफेटेरिया की कांच की दीवार से किस्सी के टकराने की आवाज़ आई, पता चला की एक उडती चिड़िया शीशे की दीवार से टकरा गयी थी |

बेचारी गौरेया |

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

He's got Back Pain.

विकट बुद्धि II
मैंने फेसबुक पर एक तस्वीर देखी थी , बहुतों ने उसे शेयर किया था|

वो तस्वीर विकट बुद्धि से मज़ाक करने के लिए जब मैंने उसे दिखाया तो उसका पहला Reaction था - "तुमने मेरी यह तस्वीर कब ली , एक मिनट , यह मेरी तस्वीर नहीं है  हाहअ हाहा "|
"ये पीछे से बिलकुल मेरी तरह दीखता है , हाहा हा , तुम बहुत नटखट हो |"
मैंने मज़ाक के लिए फिर पुछा - "इसीलिए तुमने i -phone नहीं ख़रीदा क्या ?"
"यह लैपटॉप in लुंगी का केस है, मेरा नहीं है| मैं मच्छी को ऐसे नहीं Fry करता हूँ :) |"
मेरे दोस्तों ने भी तस्वीर देखी और अपनी हँसी रोक न सके , एक ने पुछा -"यार अगर तुम इतना भारी लैपटॉप का उपयोग करोगे तो तुम्हे BackPain हो जायेगा |"
उसने सफाई दी -" ये मेरी तरह सिर्फ दीखता है , मगर मैं लैपटॉप को ऐसे  नहीं रखता |" "क्या बात करते हो ?"
दूसरे ने फब्ता कसा -"अरे इसके किचेन मैं AC भी है , एकदम पुराना वाला | अब पता चला इसका हाल ऐसा क्यूँ है |"
तीसरे से रहा नहीं गया -"लगता है मच्छी के बदले खुद को भी Fry करता होगा "
उसने कहा -"मैं Pompret खाता हूँ , यह कोई दूसरी मछली है|  

मैंने भी अपना योगदान दिया -"अबे कमीज़ तो पहेन लेते , अगर बाल जल जाता तब "
.........
दो मिनट बाद वो अचानक से बोलता है-" वो छोड़ो और यह सुनो (..........विकट बुद्धि III) |"
..........
हम लोग वापस अपने काम में मग्न होगये |

अगले दिन जब हमने विकट बुद्धि को ऑफिस में बहुत देर तक नहीं देखा तो अपने Team Lead से पुछा इसका कारण, 
उसने जवाब दिया -"He has called himself sick today, as he's got Back Pain............" 

Monday, November 28, 2011

A small chat

मेरा एक दोस्त "विकट बुद्धि " इस हफ्ते ऑफिस में नहीं था , तो उसके वापस आने पर मैंने पुछा -"किधर गए थे, कुछ खास "?
उसने जवाब दिया -" actually मेरे Sister के cousin के husband के Father का death हो गया था "|
मैंने शोक जाहिर किया और पुछा -"Kab"?
"Actually last वीक हो गया था, पर मैं इस weekend उनसे मिल कर आया |"
मैं अपनी हँसी को किस्सी तरह रोक रहा था की उसने बोला -"वो छोड़ो , यह  सुनो -
वहां बहुत सारे कुत्ते है "|
मेरा दोस्त केरल के एक छोटे से गाँव Tellicherry का है , जहाँ पर उसके मामा का एक बड़ा सा घर है |
मैंने पुछा -"कितने कुत्ते है "
"सिर्फ दो, तीन मर गए ", "उनको साँपों ने मार डाला |"
"साँप?"
"अरे हाँ , वहाँ बहुत सारे हैं और घर में एक Pond वाला स्विम्मिंग पूल भी है "
"-------"!!!
"Actually Pond  है जिसमे तुम swimming कर सकते हो , हो गया ना स्विम्मिंग पूल |"
मैंने पुछा और जिज्ञासा प्रकट किया -"यार तेरा घर तो फिर मस्त होगा , जब मर्ज़ी तब मछली ताल़ाब से पकड़ो और Fry करलो |"
"नहीं यार तुम्हे मैं बिरयानी खिलाऊंगा वो भी चिक्केन बिरियानी "
"फिर तो मैं आऊंगा, क्या है वहाँ घूमने के वास्ते ?"
"मुझे याद नहीं , बचपन में मैं घूमता था |"
"क्या यार तुम भी ?"
Houseboat
थोड़ी देर की इस गुफ्तगू के बाद जब मैं वापस अपनी सीट पर गया तो उसे गूगल पर Places to Visit in Tellicherry के बारे में सर्च करते पाया |
मुझे देखते ही उसने अपने विंडो को close करते हुए एक Smile किया |



-© 2011 सत्य घटना पर आधारित 


Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Rockstar Ali

Imtiaz Ali knows how to start a movie and holds the audience till the end with all the conviction. His research on some iconic figure like Johnny Cash and Jim Morrison was complete which he loosely spun around his college days from Delhi. The Director from Patna had all the right flavors of a college and canteen. Rockstar is more of a story about the fall from the Rise that never was. The movie is well portrayed like the tastes of Devdas or DevD pitched around with guitar instead of alcohol. The subtleness of drug and alcohol is remarkable with Ali's direction. Ali, known for usual Bollywood romantics has come out of his age and getting perfection. although he missed on some minor glitch but the package is delivered.

The movie starts with a flashback and goes to Delhi university where you find a devoted music lesser known artiste, so naive and gullible that he actually goes out to find a heartache and comes back to canteen to eat a plate of samosa. Janardhan aka Jordon aka JJ played by Ranbir kapoor is a jat but has mannerism of a Bihari, must be inspired by Ali's college days. The movie soon goes out to Kashmir and Himachal with superb camera of Anil mehta. The lighting and original locations were shot perfectly. However there was no closeup shot of the protagonist to capture his emotions. The director (may be smart enough) to ignore this and focus on the frame rather than close-ups. The movie rolls down to trips to strip clubs and red light district. Like always Ali's heroines are over chirpy and ready break the stereotype roles. Pakistani American Nargis Fakri is very fresh and delight to eyes. She has got expressions which Katrina misses, and can go beyond her status. Nargis is very easy to the character both as exquisite and fragile. She was also easy with the philosophy of Ali and did full justice to the character. I must not be surprised if I see her one day as leading lady of Bollywood. Her ducky lips so unique that you may not notice the bad dubbing for her mouth delivery.
Ali de-focused all other charatcters, esp Piyush Mishra. Kumud Mishra did suit the role but the movie was more about Ranbir and his muse Fakhri.
Shammi Kapoor looked very justifiable as a portray of Ustaad Bismillah khan and his eyes were so good. Indeed a great tribute to the legendary actor.
A movie about a Rockstar is incomplete without the superb music department. AR Rahman stood tall on the giants of Mohit Chauhan,Irshad Kamil. The music was blended with the movie so tight that it flow together. "Sadda Haq" is an example of true rock and so is the "Hawa Hawa" of lost Czech legend with superb mix of impulsive lyrics. Irshad provided the soul to the Rockstar, while Rahman did the rest. It's one of the best from Rahman in recent times. Mohit is good with different  moods and he definitely rose to new genre.

The movie has some not so good explanation about why Indian media will hunt a lesser known artiste and I have not seen any Rockstar with so much fan following in India and abroad who sings in Hindi. The chemistry between Ranbin and Fakhri was just shown sparking with a sleazy movie invite. The theft of Rs 5 lakhs was never satisfactory to throw out Ranbir from the ancestral home.

The opening lines of movie was right on the spot to set the expectation:-
पता है , यहाँ  से बहुत दूर,
गलत और सही  के पार एक मैदान है 
मैं वहाँ मिलूंगा तुझे   --- रूमी